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03 - 04 SVT Cobra Alternator Information - Ford Alternator Part#: 2R3Z-10346-BA ~ Brand New
- Ford Alternator Part#: 2R3Z-10V346-BARM ~ Remanufactured
- Motorcraft Part# GL-616
- Amp: 130AMP
- Pulley Size: 2.60"
- Pulley Nut Size: 15/16" Socket
OEM Part Supplier:
Tousley Ford Parts Depot
Tel: 800-328-9552 Ask for Steve |
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Tools Required:
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Torque Specifiction:
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1st - Begin by using a 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet and push down clockwise on the tensioner. This will release the tension on the belt and allow you to un-wrap the belt from the alternator pulley.
2nd - Use an 8mm socket to disconnect both the negative and positive cable from the battery terminal. |
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Here is a picture of the battery hold down bracket. This is the only bracket and bolt holding the battery stationary.
3rd - Use an 8mm socket with a long extension and remove this bolt. Once the bolt is removed, remove the battery hold down bracket and battery from the battery tray. |
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4th - There are three more 8mm bolts to remove before the battery tray can be detached from the chassis.
Note: Remember where the two longest bolts belong to what part of the battery tray. |
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With the battery tray removed, you will now have a clear shot at the top alternator bolt. Loosen the bolt slightly, but do not completely remove the bolt until you have removed the bottom alternator bolt and bottom support bracket. The top alternator support bracket will have a very tight tension around the alternators ears.
5th - Use a 15mm socket for the top alternator bolt. |
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Before going underneath the car loosen the top alternator bracket bolt slightly, but do not completely remove this bolt.
6th - Use a 10mm socket for this bolt. 7th - Now lift the front driver side of the car and always use a jack stand when working underneath a car! |
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Here is a picture of the alternator from underneath the car.
8th - Uncover the rubber boot to expose the B+ cable nut. Use a 10mm socket to remove the nut. 9th - Next, use a semi long flat / thin screwdriver to disconnect the connector. Note: Never pull or tug on the connector's wire when disconnecting it from the alternator! You can also disconnect the connector once the alternator is ready to be removed. |
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10th - Loosen the bottom bolt of the alternator first. Use a 13mm socket or a ratcheting box wrench for this bolt. |
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Here is a picture of the bracket that holds a few electrical lines and supports the bottom of the alternator.
11th - Use a 10mm socket to loosen the bolt. Note: DO NOT loosen the bottom bracket bolt until you have loosen the bottom bolt of the alternator. |
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Once all the above is done remove the top alternator (15mm bolt) and upper bracket (10mm bolt) from Step 5 & 6. Removing the alternator will take a little effort to get it loose from the top bracket. Swaying the alternator back and forth with some downward pressure will work. Once the alternator is almost detached from the top bracket, you will need to go underneath the car again so that you can guide it out. Routing the alternator next to the frame and power steering cooling lines with a little twist was the only possible way for me. The bracket will need to be moved slightly during the removal and install.
To install the re-paired or new alternator, reverse the procedure. Be sure to check the alignment of the belt once everything is installed. |
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Mustang GT, Mach1 and SVT Cobra's from 1999 ~ 2004 all have a free built in diagnostic tool! While the diagnostic tool can read some SES Codes, Fuel, ECT and so on, on this page we are more concerned about recognizing a bad battery, alternator, or just simply doing a quick maintenance check. If you own an 03 - 04 SVT Cobra, then you are likely aware of the OEM alternators failure rate. By no means am I to saying that a re-manufactured or re-built units are not good, in fact it seems to be the only route to go through at this time. The below will show you a very quick way to make sure that the alternator is doing its job. The readings are only confirmed for the Mach1 and 03 - 04 SVT Cobra's models.
Note: Testing can be done while the car is ON or OFF. Motor OFF:
140 ~ 149 = LOW Battery Level
150 ~ 154 = Normal Battery Level
155 ~ 160 = Good Battery Level Motor ON:
140 ~ 160 = Alternator NOT Charging
161 ~ 185 = Alternator Charging Go to the "Related Links" for more diagnostic options. |
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1st - Push and hold the trip / reset button down.
Do Not release it.
2nd - Insert the key and turn it to the on position.
Do Not start the motor.
3rd - Wait until the odometer display reads "tESt".
Now release the buttom immediately.
4th - If you did the above steps correctly, the odometer will read "GAGE" and all the gauges will do a quick sweep. |
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5th - Push the button 14 times till you reach "bAtt" for current battery readings.
Note: To run the diagnostic tool while the car is running, on Step 2 turn the motor ON. FYI: The picture of the "bAtt 150" is normally found when a car is not driven much. In this case, the car has been sitting in the garage for over 2 weeks and without a battery tender. |
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| Ignition Switch Position | A Circuit 36 (YE/WH) | I Circuit 904(LG/RD) | Generator B+ Circuit 38 (BK/OG) | Battery | Engine to Battery Ground | Charging System Warning Indicator Operation |
| Off | 12V | 0v | 12V | 12V | 0V | Off |
| RUN-Engine Off | 12V | 1-3V | 12V | 12V | 0V | Illuminated |
| RUN-Engine Running | 13-15V | 13-15V | 13-15V | 13-15V | 0V | Off |