Clutch Information

 

Got a Slipping Clutch?

- This is a quick video of a slipping clutch for those who may not know what symptoms to look for. Note the relation between the RPM vs actual MPH being indicated.

 Slipping Clutch / Right Click and Save As
For any one using an after market clutch adjuster, maintain a good adjustment in order to prevent pre-mature wear. IMPORTANT! An improper adjustment will quickly destroy the clutch assembly!
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Removing and Installing a Clutch Cable
Tools Required:
  • 8mm and 10mm Sockets
  • Ratchet
  • Dremel
  • Strait and 90* Needle Nose Pliers
  • Floor Jack and Jack Stand

Information on this page will also work on 99-01 SVT Cobra's and 03-04 Mach1's.

Hopefully you will have an after market firewall adjuster to ease the swap of the clutch cable. If not, you will need to go underneath the dash and lift the clutch pedal all the way up to release the clutch release lever cable.

1st - Loosen the tension on the clutch cable.
Firewall Adjuster: Turn the adjuster in towards the firewall.
Stock Adjuster: Go underneath the dash to release the tension.

2nd - Move the seat all the way back or remove it from the car.

3rd - Raise the front driver side of the car and properly support it with a jack stand.

4th - Use an 8mm socket for the clutch cable bracket.

Note: Bracket is located on the driver side near the rear of the alternator and attached to the frame

 Step 4
5th - Go underneath the driver side of the car and use a 10mm socket to remove the bolt and inspection cover from the transmission.
 Step 5
6th - Use a straight needle nose pliers to remove the clutch cable c-clip from the bell housing.

7th - Detach the clutch cable from the clutch fork.

8th - Slide the clutch cable out of the bell housing and route it to the front of the engine bay.

9th - Slide the clutch cable out of the firewall.

10th - Remove the old cable from the top of the engine bay since the bracket has fewer things to catch.

 Step 6

11th - Carefully use a dremel to cut the end piece of the clutch cable to mirror the snapped or frayed cable. Be sure not to nick any part of the cable during this process. If you are still using the stock quadrant, DO NOT modify any part of the cable.

Finally - Reverse the procedure when installing the new clutch cable.

Note: When re-installing the clutch cable bracket bolt, it is much easier to do it from underneath the car (thanks tetge for the suggestion). Be sure that the clutch is adjusted properly.

Step 11
Bottom Side - The clutch cable is routed in-between the oil pan and k-member just in case you forgot.
 Finally Bottom Side
Top Side - Route the clutch cable in between the valve cover and hard brake line, but be sure that it is in front of the Oil Dip Stick.
 Finally Top Side
Disclaimer: 0-1320feet.com does not take any responsibilities for any damages and or losses.
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Symptom Chart
Condition Possible Sources
- Clutch Slippage
- Clutch pedal sticking.
- Pressure plate diaphragm spring damaged or weakened.
- Clutch pressure plate damaged.
- Clutch disc facing surface hardened or oil-coated.
- Clutch release hub and bearing binding.
- Flywheel glazed or damaged.
- Loose pressure plate to flywheel bolts.
- Clutch Chatter or Shutter
- Loose or worn engine mount.
- Loose pressure plate to flywheel bolts.
- Oil on clutch disc facing.
- Clutch pressure plate damaged or excessive runout.
- Clutch disc facing surface hardened or damaged.
- Flywheel surface glazed or damaged.
- Transmission input shaft eccentric or not perpendicular.
- Clutch Drag
- Cable release linkage outside the flywheel housing worn, cracked or bent.
- Excessive runout or damaged clutch disc.
- Clutch disc splines rusted or worn.
- Loose pressure plate to flywheel bolts.
- Clutch Pedal Pulsation
- Clutch disc damaged or worn.
- Excessive flywheel runout.
- Loose pressure plate to flywheel bolts.
- Improperly assembled release lever to pivot stud.
- Clutch Related Vibrations
- Engine component grounding against frame.
- Loose flywheel bolts.
- Excessive flywheel runout.
- Imbalanced clutch pressure plate.
- Accessory drive belt loose or damaged.
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Pinpoint Test
Test A1 - Clutch Slippage
Test Step Results
A1 - Inspect the Clutch Linkage
  • Key in OFF position.
  • Block the wheels and apply the parking brake.
  • Depress and slowly release the clutch pedal.
  • Does the clutch pedal release without binding?
Yes
 
No
Inspect the clutch pedal.
A2 - Carry Out a Stall Test
  • Key in START position.
  • Block the wheels and apply the parking brake.
  • Place the transmission in fourth gear.
  • Increase the engine speed to 2000rpm and slowly release the clutch pedal.
  • Does the engine stall within five seconds?
Yes
The clutch is not slipping.
 
No
Inspect the clutch components for damage.
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Test B1 - Clutch Chatter or Shudder
Test Step Results
B1 - Check Engine Or Transmission Mounts
  • Inspect all the engine and transmission mounts for looseness or damage.
  • Are any of the engine or transmission mounts loose or damaged?
Yes
Tighten or Install new engine mounts or transmission mounts. Test the system for normal operation.
 
No
B2 - Inspect Pressure Plate Bolts
  • Inspect the pressure plate to flywheel bolts.
  • Are any of the pressure plate to flywheel bolts loose?
Yes
Tighten or Install new bolts. Test the system for normal operation.
 
No
B3 - Inspect Pressure Plate
  • Remove the clutch pressure plate.
  • Inspect the clutch pressure plate.
  • Are any signs of damage present on the clutch pressure plate?
Yes
Install a new clutch pressure plate. Test the system for normal operation.
 
No
B4 - Check Clutch Disc
  • Carry out the clutch disc inspection procedure. * Refer to the Ford Manual.
  • Is the clutch disc OK?
Yes
 
No
Install a new clutch disc. Test the system for normal operation.
B5 - Inspect the Flywheel
  • Inspect the flywheel for damage and runout. * Refer to the Ford Manual.
  • Is the flywheel OK?
Yes
 
No
Repair or Install a new flywheel as necessary. Test the system for normal operation.
B6 - Inspect The Input Shaft
  • Inspect the input shaft for signs of wear or damage.
  • Are any signs of wear or damage present on the input shaft?
Yes
Install a new input shaft.
 
No
Verify the customer concerns.
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Test C1 - Clutch Drag
Test Step Results
C1 - Check High Shifting Efforts
  • Key in START position.
  • Set parking brake.
  • With the shift control selector in Reverse, cluth disengaged and engine idling, move the shift lever to a position halfway between Reverse and Neutral.
  • Slowly engage clutch. The transmission will behave as if it is in Neutral.
  • Gear clash can now be heard if an attempt is made to shift into Reverse with the clutch engaged. Reserve can now be measured.
  • While maintaining light pressure on the shift selector, slowly press the clutch pedal to the floor. The gear clash will stop and the shift selector will slide into the Reverse position.
  • Is there a minimum 19.05 (0.750 inch) clutch pedal reserve?
Yes
Clutch system OK.
 
No
Check the clutch pressure plate and clutch disc. Install a new clutch pressure plate or clutch disc if necessary. Test the system for normal operation.
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Test D1 - Clutch Pedal Pulsation
Test Step Results
D1 - Check the Clutch Pedal Pulsation
  • Key in START position.
  • With the transmission in Neutral, slowly press the clutch pedal.
  • Does the clutch pedal pulsate while being pressed?
Yes
 
No
Verify customer concern.
D2 - Inspect Pressure Plate Bolts
  • Inspect the pressure plate to flywheel bolts.
  • Are any of the pressure plate to flywheel bolts loose?
Yes
Tighten or Install new bolts. Test the system for normal operation.
 
No
D3 - Inspect the Clutch Pressure Plate
  • Remove the clutch pressure plate.
  • Inspect the clutch pressure plate for damage. * Refer to the Ford Manual.
  • Are there any signs of damage present on the clutch pressure plate?
Yes
Install a new clutch pressure plate. Test for the system for normal operation.
 
No
D4 - Inspect the Clutch Disc
  • Carry out the clutch disc inspection procedure. * Refer to the Ford Manual.
  • Is the clutch disc OK?
Yes
 
No
Install a new clutch disc. Test the system for normal operation.
D5 - Inspect the Flywheel
  • Inspect the flywheel for damage and or runout. * Refer to the Ford Manual
  • Is flywheel OK?
Yes
 
No
Tighten, Resurface or Install a new flywheel as necessary. Test the system for normal operation.
D6 - Inspect Release Lever Interface to Pivot Stud
  • Inspect the release lever and the pivot stud for damage or misalignment.
  • Are there any signs of damage present or misalignment between the release lever and pivot stud?
Yes
Install a new pivot stud and release lever. Test the system for normal operation.
 
No
Verify customer concern.
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Test E1 - Clutch Related Vibration
Test Step Results
E1 - Check for Engine Component Grounding
  • Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
  • Check the engine and transmission mounts for grounding.
  • Check for exhaust manifolds or other engine component grounding on the body or frame.
  • Is there evidence of grounding on the body or frame?
Yes
Repair the components as necessary. Test the system for normal operation.
 
No
E2 - Check for Accessory Drive Vibration
  • Key in START position.
  • Remove the accessory drive belt.
  • Does the vibration stop when the accessory drive belt is removed from the engine?
Yes
* Refer to the Ford Manual to diagnose the accessory drive belt components.
 
No
Stop the engine and Install the drive belt.
E3 - Check for Release Bearing Noise
  • Key in the START position.
  • Depress and hold the clutch pedal.
  • Is a whirring, grating, or grinding noise present only when the pedal is pushed?
Yes
Install a new clutch release hub and bearing.
 
No
E4 - Inspect the Flywheel
  • Key in OFF position
  • Remove the transmission
  • Carry out a flywheel check. * Refer to the Ford Manual.
  • Is the flywheel OK?
Yes
Verify customer concern.
 
No
Tighten, Resurface or Install a new flywheel. Test the system for normal operation.
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