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- IRS Axle Retainer Nut Information -
The Ford Manual recommends that the retainer nut be discarded and replaced with a new piece if it is ever removed. Also, the manual does not mention using any threadlocker to insure proper install. While some of us have gotten away with re-using the retainer nuts, I recently started having minor issues with the nut backing out with x amount of miles. Using a very small amount of this threadlocker from Permatex, it seems to have cured the nut from backing out. I also marked the threads on the outboard stub and on the nut so that I can visually check for any movement. So far, this issue is now behind me. Permatex Large Diameter Threadlocker Red
Part# 27140
Bolt Size: 25mm+ or larger in diameter
URL: www.permatex.com |
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Tools Required:
* Requires a Boxed End Wrench
+ Addition Socket |
Torque Specifications:
Note: Step 8 and Step 9 is not required if you are just swapping out half shafts. |
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Important!!! The Ford Manual recommends that the car be on level ground and curb height before marking the Shock Absorbers. Also, before you start tightening down the suspension bolts, be sure to raise the lower control arm and reach the marked spot on the shock absorbers! Step 1
- Begin by lifting the rear of the car as high as possible and remove the tire.
Note: You will need a good amount of room underneath the pumpkin when you are ready to pop out the inboard shaft from the pumpkin. |
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Step 2
- Use a 35mm socket and a good long breaker bar to loosen the axel nut.
Note: People are under the impression that the axel nut is a 36mm socket, but in fact, tetge has found that a 35mm socket is the perfect fit. The 36mm does have a little play when fitted in the nut. |
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Step 3
- Once the axel nut is loose, use a ratchet to get the nut off quicker.
Note: The Ford Manual recommends that you discard the used nut. WARNING!!! Using an impact gun on the nut is not recommended. The aluminum nut can easily heat up and get cross threaded. |
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Step 4
- Use a needle nose plier to bend back the cotter pin and slide the pin out of the nut.
- Then use an 18mm socket to remove the nut. Note: The Ford Manual recommends that you discard the nut and cotter pin. |
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Step 5
- Use a knuckle puller to disconnect the tie-rod link from the knuckle.
Note: Once the tie-rod link is about to come off, it will make a loud popping noise. |
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Step 6
- Use a jack stand or floor jack to support the lower control arm.
Note: A floor jack will help during the install of the bolt. Since the shock will expand downwards once the bolt is removed, you can raise and lower the control arm to ease the install of the bolt. |
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Step 7
- Use an 18mm socket and boxed end wrench to remove the nut and bolt.
Note: The Ford Manual recommends that you discard the nut and bolt. |
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Step 8
Before doing this next step, release the parking brake if you have used it.
- Use a c-clamp to compress the parking brake lever arm. This should allow you to disengage the parking brake cable end from the lever.
- Now remove the brake cable retainer clip.
- Then remove the parking brake cable from the knuckle.
Note: You can use a channel lock or a long flat head screw driver on the parking brake lever arm, but I have found that the c-clamp being the most time friendly method. |
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Step 9
- Use an 18mm socket and remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the knuckle.
- Remove the caliper from the knuckle / disc and properly secure it. |
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Step 10
- You will need something to mark the cam washer and upper control arm in order to maintain the same camber.
Upper Control Arm: Use an 18mm socket and open ended wrench for these bolts. Once the nut is removed, DO NOT remove the bolt since it will hold the knuckle steady when using an axel puller.
Lower Control Arm: Use an 18mm socket and open ended wrench for the lower control arm nut and bolt. Also, DO NOT remove these bolts as of yet.
Note: The Ford Manual recommends that you discard the nuts and bolts. IF new nuts & cam bolts are used, you will need to get an alignment done. |
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Step 11
- Install the axel/hub puller on the wheel studs and secure the puller with 3 lug nuts.
- Then remove the lower control arm bolt. - Start turning clockwise on the puller until the outboard stub splines have pushed out of the hub. Note: You can rent the Axel/Hub Puller Part# 27037 from Auto Zone. Rent for $20.00 for 90 Days. (Info Dated on 09/01/2007) WARNING!!! Do Not Over-Angulate the CV Joint or Damage the Boot during removal and install process. |
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Step 12
Since my outboard stub shaft failed right at the beginning of the splines, Step 11 was a non issue with over-angulating the cv joints. Working with an in-tact half shaft would require a little effort in getting the outboard stub shaft out of the hub. |
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Another picture of the failed part. |
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Step 13
- Before pulling out the inboard shaft from the pumpkin, prop up the knuckle so that you have full clearance for the entire half shaft. |
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Step 14
- Use a pry bar and wedge it in-between the pumpkin and ABS ring. With a little effort and prying on the ABS ring, be ready for the circlip to release its hold on the differential side gears.
- While you are still underneath the car, carefully remove the inboard shaft and rest the half shaft on the lower control arm. WARNING!!! Carefully remove the inboard shaft out of the pumpkin and do not allow the splines to rub against the bearing and the seal. |
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Step 15
- For this next step, I found that guiding the half shaft out was best done outside of the car. While folks with coil overs will have to detach the end links of the sway bar, the non coil over folks can move the shock ever so slightly in order for the half shaft to clear.
Note: Do Not bend the shock to a great degree, but just slightly so that the boot from the half shaft can clear it. |
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Step 16
- Check the bearing and seal for any damage. |
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Installation:
* Check the condition of the circlip and install new circlip if need be.
* Clean the surface of the inboard stub shaft and position the half shaft for install.
* Carefully install the inboard stub shaft and seat the circlip into the differential side gears.
* Install the outboard stub shaft to the hub, but do not tighten the nut down yet.
* Install all the bolts to the upper and lower control arms, shock and toe rod, but do not tighten the nut down yet.
* Raise the lower control arm until the suspension is fully loaded and then tighten down the nuts and bolts.
* Apply some threadlocker and install the retainer nut and torque to spec. |
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